Guide to French hallmarks

The tiny marks that guarantee everything

Hallmarks are small impressions struck into the metal of a jewel, officially guaranteeing its fineness — that is, the proportion of precious metal it contains. France has one of the oldest and strictest systems in the world: knowing how to read them gives you a decisive advantage at a flea market, a car-boot sale, or when facing an inheritance.

Where to look

They are small — often less than a millimetre — and hidden: inside a ring band, on the clasp of a necklace or bracelet, on the bail of a pendant, on the post of an earring. A 10x loupe is essential; raking light helps a great deal.

The fineness marks

For gold: the eagle's head guarantees 750-thousandths gold (18 karat) — the French gold hallmark par excellence. The scallop shell denotes 585‰ gold (14 karat), the clover 375‰ gold (9 karat).

For silver, the Minerva — the goddess's helmet, struck since 1838 — guarantees solid silver at 925‰. It is one of the most recognisable and reassuring hallmarks in existence.

For platinum: the dog's head, guaranteeing 950‰.

The other marks

The owl indicates second-hand or imported gold of unguaranteed origin; the swan does the same for silver. The lozenge, finally, is the maker's mark: the signature of the French manufacturer, with initials and a symbol. It is sometimes what allows a piece to be attributed to a great house — and to see its value soar.

The bargain-hunter's reflex

The absence of any hallmark on a piece sold as “gold” in France is a warning sign — except for items under 3 grams, which are legally exempt. If the seller cannot show you the hallmark, do not pay the price of gold. And for the stone that adorns it, run it through Lapidem's authenticity check.